Kastom Village - Day 2

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The second day got off to a fantastic start with Tom serving the tropical breakfast, tea and fresh bread!  Yummy!  I actually got out of bed the earliest than on any other trip or recorder Suzy history just so I didn't miss out on the sun rising and breakfast with the crew. Today was going to be a big day... and the flies were already starting to drive me insane!  ArGH!!!!!  On a side note, I think the flies are the worst in the morning because I've been in such a calm sleepy state then suddenly one dive bombs for your ear and another up your nose.  Margaret was a school teacher and we were going visit her on our way into town.  We loaded all the gear and jumped into the back of the truck for a fun filled exciting day.

When we arrived at the school, all the kids were running about cleaning up after the cyclone that had gone through the village a few days prior, plus it was the first day of school for the semester.  The children on Tanna Island are so exceptionally beautiful, and I was told that there is a recessive gene in the population where some people are born with blond hair... it's the most beautiful thing I've ever seen!  Of course, the North American in me just assumed they dyed their hair somehow but by day two I realized that wasn't a possibility.  There's no electricity let alone hair dy.  After a few snaps and a group photo of the kids under the banyon tree we were quickly on our way to the market.

The market is located in the centre of the village, near all of the buildings that I saw on the Island, and also adjacent from the water where a ship will come in once or twice a week to bring supplies.  I wasn't surprised by the market, there were more beautiful children and the women sold the usual items that were locally grown, coconuts, papaya, banana's, potatoes, peanuts, hand woven rope & bags, home made laplap, live chickens bound at the ankles, and meat.  Meat is Meat... whether it's fish, chicken, pork, or dog... Meat is Meat... just FYI incase you ever go :-)  Levi and I bought some sweet banana shaped bread sticks for 10 cents each, and a few medium sized handmade bags for $4 each. Most other things were a dollar or two - for one dollar/$1000 Vatu went a long way (Ie. 10 coconuts, or 30 small limes, or a bag full of papaya's).  What struck me as strange was when I went to buy something there was no one standing around what they were selling.  I had to ask a lady to find the person selling the bags. Then finally she came over and pretty much ignored me!  There was no selling tactics or trying to up-sell going on here.  Just think the complete opposite of a Mexico Market and you'll have the right feel.  ... I'm really starting to like it here!

 

We were met by the Doctors to take us to the Kastom Village!  Oh ya... Next to having our heads taken off at the top of Yasur, we were all really looking forward to this.  How often does one get the chance to go way way way out into the woods on roads that shouldn't be classified as drivable and meet people who live like their ancestors did thousands of years ago before the Missionary's came to change the people.  This place is called the 'Kastom VIllage'. The men wear a small grass sheath in-front tied onto their bodies with string and the woman wear full length grass skirts. That's It!!!  I felt over dressed!! The people on Tanna Island are known as the happiest people in the world.  At first glance their stare looks harsh and non-inviting, but the moment you smile at them or make eye contact, their faces light up and the sweetness just pours out of them.  

I had seen a few images of the people that live there, and although they are starting to get visited often by people who want to see them, our team had a different idea on what to do when we met them; We brought prescription glasses for anyone who's vision was failing.  A good friend of mine Payam helped us collect glasses at his store Nanaimo One Hour Optical and in just a week there was over 30 glasses donated for the people of Vanuatu.  We started with the men, whoever wanted to go first and try on their first ever pair of prescription glasses.  How exciting... to see someone who had poor eye sight suddenly get it back.  It was a very rewarding moment to see that our efforts had contributed not to change the people or alter any of their customs, but to give back their vision so they could sharpen tools or use a knife to carve a piece of wood.  Just imagine trying to do anything up close where you can no longer rely on your eye sight for accuracy.  In North American, more than half of us couldn't see our computer screens!  ... Back to the point, they were so incredibly happy and shy about their glasses all at the same time.  We tested all the glasses on each man or woman who wanted to try them with Dr. Rob Sealey holding up a Canadian rocky mountains calendar for them to see and Dr. David Hepburn asked them in Bish-la-ma, their native language, if they could see better or worse.  Thank goodness for the Doctors, they were such amazing help.  After going through every pair, the favourite pair was chosen and the next person came up.  We all took a little break after this and went over to visit the women and children on the other side of the large meeting area to look at the hammers, beaded necklaces, ect... they had made and were selling.  Some of the people were so thrilled with their glasses that they brought Levi and I gifts as thank you's which I thought was very sweet of them.  I think it's such a great idea to try and give back no matter where you go and what you are doing... Image what this world could be like if more people thought and more importantly acted this way.

One of the men opened up some kind of fruit like thing that was filled with a creamy orange substance and he said in broken english "Makes you beautiful"...  Although I thought I would look like a football player, how could Levi and I not try it!?!  We took a few photos under their Enormous Banyon Tree which definitely inspired the movie Avatar!... then the villagers did three dances and sang songs for us.  It was such an beautiful experience I'm still fathoming over it.  They have nothing, they want nothing, they are just happy, energetic, simple people.  I must admit, part of me was jealous for they way they lived their lives.  As a North American we get an education and if we're lucky we find a good paying job that we may or may not enjoy and work til the age of 65, Monday to Friday 9am-5pm with a lunch break and a few weeks holidays a year.  I'm not quite sure who came up with our system but somewhere between the two would be ideal!

There was only one thing that made me feel a little out of place, besides that fact that they were all almost naked!  The men and woman do not hang out together, in my experience, there is a segregation between the two.  I don't think it's because woman are valued as less, I think it's the opposite. Women are a precious part of giving life and raising the family...  But I wasn't playing or acting in that role and I could feel that I was a little out of place because I was hanging with the men.  I didn't let it bother me, instead I embraced it!  ... Now I'm sure some of you will cringe when you hear how a boy becomes a man.  From birth to 12 or 13 they stay with the woman and when they hit puberty, they go through a special circumcision ceremony (no anaesthetic!!!).  Yep, sober they get circumcised and the for-skin is buried with a coconut and it grows a new tree.  That is their coconut tree... literally!!! Ouch!

It was interesting how they figured out how old they were because they did not keep track of time... they would reference to major events and if you were around to see it, you were an approx age.  Age wasn't important to them, they lived because they are alive, not like they were aging and slipping into retirement.  As you'll see by some of the images, they still have butts of steel even at 60-70 years old!  We thanked them for the songs/dances and attempted the roads while it was still light outside.  Levi and the guys, Palmer and Eddie, were off to try Kava!!!

Kava bars are open and hour before and after sunset.  You just simply walk until you see a small lantern on the side of the road meaning 'Kava Bar open'.  I had never heard of Kava... I had to go for myself to see what all the fuss was about.  Although I wasn't on film, we found a Kava Bar that would allow women. The timing couldn't have been any more perfect.  We arrived and the sun began to set spraying the sky with rays of orange, yellow and gold.  It was one of the most vibrant and glowing sunsets I've seen this year and my camera was very happy about it!  I could get into details about how Kava is made, but let's just keep it short and tell you it's made two ways.  1) Pre-pubescent boys (under the age of 12) chew the Kava root and spit it out then drain that through a cloth.  And that is what you drink!  2) It's ground up and mixed with water or beer... we opted for option 2. I guess the crew just wasn't in the mood for drinking pre-pubsecent boys spit mixed with Kava root juice! haha!  Kava is known to numb the mouth and calm the mind and body (just felt like 10 lb weights were added to each of my ankles) but it was enjoyable in the way that it does not alter the brain in the way that alcohol does.  All thoughts remained 'sober' but calm and quiet.  Can't say I'll ever try it again but I did enjoy sitting by the waters edge contemplating the tremendous day that we all just had, knowing no other day will ever be like this one!